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3DR DIY Y6 Build Manual

3DR DIY Y6 Manual Online:

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3DR DIY Y6 User Manual
3DR DIY Y6 User Guide
3DR DIY Y6 Online Manual

Text of 3DR DIY Y6 User Guide:

  • 3DR DIY Y6, 2 Thanks for purchasing a DIY Y6! These instructions will show you how to assemble a Y6 using the Pixhawk autopilot system and ArduCopter/APM:Copter firmware. If you plan to use other components in your build, please adjust these instructions accordingly. For online instructions, visit 3dr.com/diy-y6-kit. Frame parts 3 Electronics 4 Tools 4 1 Motor assembly 5 2 Power system wiring 8 3 Body plate assembly 10 4 Pixhawk assembly

  • 3 Frame parts 30 mm bolts (5) 25 mm bolts (22) 5 mm bolts (30) nylon bolts (4) 30 mm male-female standos (4) 19 mm hollow spacers (15) 18 mm female-female standos (9) base plate top plate Pixhawk plate accessory plate metal nuts (32) nylon nuts (3) thumb nuts (2) leg plates (6) leg support plates (3) motor plates (6) velcro strips (one pair) velcro straps (3) dual lock fo

  • 3DR DIY Y6, 4 Electronics motors with adapters (6) electronic speed controllers (6) Deans connectors (6) SF propellers (4) SFP propellers (4) Heat shrink tubing (12) GPS mast with four mounting screws u-blox GPS with compass Pixhawk kit To complete this build, you will need the following tools not included with your kit: • Phillips screwdriver • Double-side foam tape or other mounting adhesive • Soldering equipment Note: The electronics for this build require soldering. If you’re unfamiliar with soldering, our friends at Sparkfun have some great tutorials that can get you started, includin

  • 3DR DIY Y6, 5 1 Motor assembly 19 mm hollow spacers (3)5 mm bolts (4)motors (2) motor plates (2) metal nuts (3) 25 mm bolts (3) Follow these instructions to assemble two co-axial motors. 1 Assemble bottom motor Align two holes in the bottom of the motor with two holes in the motor plate. Apply threadlocker to two 5 mm bolts, and secure the motor to the plate from below. This motor will attach to the underside of the arm, so orient the motor so that the cables will protrude as close as possible to the hole in the side of the arm. When applying threadlocker, use less than one drop, and cover only four or five threads where the bolt connects with the motor. Make sure to insert t

  • 6 2 Attach top motor to arm Place a motor plate on top of the arm with the short end of the plate facing towards the end of the arm. Place the motor on top of the plate, and align the two small holes in the motor, plate, and arm. Orient the motor with the cables as close as possible to the hole in the side of the arm. Apply threadlocker to two 5 mm bolts (less than one drop cover

  • 3DR DIY Y6, 7 4 Attach bottom motor to arm Place the assembled bottom motor against the bottom of the arm with the short end of the plate facing towards the end of the arm. Apply threadlocker to the ends of the two 25 mm bolts (less than one drop covering four or five threads at the end of the bolt). Place a 19 mm hollow spacer between each of the pairs of holes in the two motor plates. Place the 25 mm bolts through the motor plates and spacers, and secure from below with a metal nut.

  • 3DR DIY Y6, 8 2 Power system wiring Follow these instructions to connect the power system. 1 Solder Deans to ESCs Solder a Deans connector to the red and black wires on each electronic speed controller (ESC). Check the Deans connectors for the + and – markings, and solder the + side to the red wire and the – side to the black wire. Don’t forget to add heat shrink tubing to the wires before soldering, and shrink the tubing over the finished connections. 2 Number ESCs Use tape (or other method) to label each ESC with a number one through six. Deans to ESC: negative = black positive = red - + power modulepower distribution board (PDB) electronic

  • 3DR DIY Y6, 9 3 Connect ESCs to PDB Connect the Deans connectors (red) on the ESCs to the Deans connectors on the power distribution board (PDB) in any order. Take a look at the PDB and find the pins labelled M1 through M6 (motors 1 through 6), and make a note of which color wire connects to each. Now connect the three-wire cables from each ESC to these pins on the PDB according to the ESC numbers. This is where the order is critical. Connect the ESC that you labelled as “1” to the pins on the PDB labelled “M1”. Orient the cable wi

  • 3DR DIY Y6, 10 3 Body plate assembly Follow these instructions to assemble the body plates. 1 Add velcro straps to base plate Thread the two velcro straps through the slots in the base plate. These straps will hold the battery to the bottom of your copter. The perfectly flat side of the plate (without the protruding nuts) should face down. Your kit includes two velcro strips to attach to the battery and the bottom of the copter. To install, attach the strip with loops (fuzzy) to the bottom of the plate between the straps, and attach

  • 11 Ensure that each arm is attached to the plate with the top and bottom motors in correct orientation. An easy way to tell which side of the arm is the top is to look at the 25 mm bolts in the motor assembly; the bottom side of the arm has nuts securing the bolts. 3 Label motors Use tape (or other method) to label the motors by the numbers shown here. (The number above the line corr

  • 3DR DIY Y6, 12 5 Assemble electronics onto base plate The base plate holds the power system: power distribution board (PDB), power module, and six ESCs. Place the assembled power system onto the base plate. ESCs 1, 3, 4, and 6 will attach to the sides of the copter, perpendicular to the plates, and cannot be secured until after the top plate is assembled. For now, place these ESCs around the edges of the plate. Situate ESCs 2 and 5 on the base plate with the labels facing down. To better accommodate the power system on the plate, you can switc

  • 3DR DIY Y6, 13 metal nuts thumb nuts hollow spacers base plate 25 mm bolts 30 mm bolts Secure the arms to the plates through the holes in the end of the arms and the holes in the plates shown. Use 30 mm bolts and thumb nuts to attach the blue arms, and use a 25 mm bolt and metal nut to attach the black arm. Finally, attach the base and top plates together with 25 mm bolts, 19 mm hollow spacers, and metal nuts where marked. BOTTOM VIEW

  • 3DR DIY Y6, 14 7 Secure ESCs Use zip ties to secure the dangling ESCs to the outsides of the plates using the small slots along the outside edges of the top and base plates. Orient each ESC with the capacitor (cylindrical volume at the edge of the ESC) nearest to the closest arm. 8 Thread cables through top plate Locate the following three cables, and thread them up through the central space in the top plate: PDB two-wire cable (red and black), PDB six-wire cable (multicolor), and power module six-wire cable (red and black). These cables will connect to Pixhawk.

  • 15 4 Pixhawk assembly Follow these instructions to assemble the Pixhawk and accessory plates. 1 Mount Pixhawk Separate the four foam pieces provided with the Pixhawk kit, and attach them to the bottom four corners of the board. Mount Pixhawk to the Pixhawk plate with the arrow facing towards the wider end of the plate. 2 Mount buzzer and switch The switch (button)

  • 3DR DIY Y6, 16 3 Mount GPS Place the base of the GPS mast over the four holes in the accessory plate with the shorter side of the top of the mast facing the left side of the plate (the arrow-shaped holes in the plate face forward). Add a mounting screw to each hole, and secure with nuts. Remove the adhesive backing from the mast and place the GPS module onto the mast with the connectors facing the shorter side and the arrow on the GPS pointing in the same direction as the arrow-shaped holes in the plate. 4 Insert SD card Insert the micro-SD card into the slot at the end of Pixhawk. The APM:Cop

  • 3DR DIY Y6, 17 5 Connect modules to Pixhawk Connect the buzzer, switch, splitter, GPS, power, and telemetry modules to Pixhawk. To ensure the most secure cable assembly, thread the cables through the holes in the plates where possible. Where the cables dangle away from the frame, such as along the mast, use zip ties to secure the cables to the frame. Note: Pixhawk’s DF13 connectors can be fragile when disconnected and reconnected multiple times. Do not pull on the cables to disconnect, use a fingernail or small, flat tool to loosen the edges of the connector until it pops out. Buzzer and switch: Connect the buzzer to Pixhawk’s BUZZER port, and connect the switch (

  • 3DR DIY Y6, 18 6 Connect RC receiver 7 Connect motor outputs Connect backup power (optional) Locate the six-wire cable (multicolor) protruding from the central space in the top plate. Connect it to the main output signal (s) pins on Pixhawk according to motor number. Recall your notes from the power system wiring and see which color wire corresponds to motor 1. Ensure that that color wire is connected to the main output 1 signal (s) pin. Do not rely on the colors of the wires shown here, the accuracy of this component is critical. Pixhawk is compatible with PPM RC receivers or PWM receivers with an additional PPM encoder module. Connect the three-wire cable (red, black, an

  • 3DR DIY Y6, 19 8 Assemble plates Add a 5 mm nylon bolt to the four holes in the accessory plate marked below, and attach a 30 mm stando to each one below the plate. Add the Pixhawk plate to the ends of the standos and secure with metal nuts. Ensure that the arrows on the accessory plate face towards the wider end of the Pixhawk plate. nylon bolts metal nuts 30 mm spacers accessory plate Pixhawk plate

  • 3DR DIY Y6, 20 Place the assembled plates over the exposed bolts in the top plate with the arrows facing towards the blue arms, and secure with metal nuts. 9 Mount remaining components Select a location on the copter to mount the I2C splitter, telemetry radio, and RC receiver. Use dual lock or double-sided foam tape to mount the components. Check that all components are connected securely to Pixhawk. Where you place the components on the copter is ultimately limited by the length of the cables between mod

  • 3DR DIY Y6, 21 5 Leg assembly Follow these instructions to assemble one leg. 1 Assemble leg Align the leg plates, and place a stando between each of the bottom three pairs of holes in the plates. Secure each stando to the plates with a 5 mm bolt on each end. Insert the support plate into the horizontal slots at the top of the leg. 2 Attach leg to arm Align the two holes in the top of the leg with the two holes in the center of the arm. Orient the leg with the point facing towards the center of the copter. Insert two 25 mm bolts through the arm and the leg, and secure with metal nuts. Repeat these steps for each leg of you

  • 3DR DIY Y6, 22 6 Calibration Your Y6 assembly is almost complete. Now it’s time to go online, download software, and begin calibrating Pixhawk to work with your new frame. Do not proceed to propeller assembly with performing calibration. View the calibration instructions online at 3dr.com/diy-y6-kit. 7 Propeller assembly Follow these instructions to assemble propellers. 1 Assemble propellers Remove the rings from the propeller package. Select the ring with the smaller internal diameter, and insert it into the back of the propeller hub. SF propellers (3) SFP propellers (3)propeller adapters (6)

  • 23 2 Assemble propeller adapters Select the propeller adapters and the longer screws provided with the adapters. Do not use the x-shaped plate. Apply threadlocker to the four small screws included with the propeller adapters (less than one drop covering four to five threads). Attach an adapter to the top of each motor. 3 Add propellers Your Y6 uses SF and SFP propellers. These

  • 3DR DIY Y6, 24 Your Y6 build is now complete! Before your first flight, please read all safety information and first flight instructions at copter.ardupilot.com/wiki/table- of-contents/. For customer support, contact us at [email protected] or call our support line at +1 (858) 225-1414 Monday through Friday, from 8 am to 5 pm, PST. COMPLETE Y6

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