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Connoisseur Models LNER Toad E Operation & User’s Manual

Connoisseur Models LNER Toad E Manual Online:

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Connoisseur Models LNER Toad E User Manual
Connoisseur Models LNER Toad E User Guide
Connoisseur Models LNER Toad E Online Manual

Text of Connoisseur Models LNER Toad E User Guide:

  • Connoisseur Models LNER Toad E, The Toad E was the final design of 10’6” wheelbase brake van built by the LNER in large numbers in the early 1930’s. They remained a common sight at the end of freight trains into the 1960’s. Wheels, 3’1”, 3 Hole Disc (7122) are required to complete, Available from Slater’s, Temple Road, Matlock Bath, Derbyshire, DE4 3PG, Telephone 01629 583993. Jim McGeown, Connoisseur Models, 33 Grampian Road, Penfields, Stourbridge, DY8 4UE, Telephone 01384 371418 - 0 Gauge Skill Builder Kit - LNER Toad E, 20 ton Brake Van What's A Skill Builder Kit ? I am increasingly finding customers who are newcomers to 0 gauge and me

  • GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS Please read this section carefully, especially if this is your first etched brass kit. Many modellers fight shy of working in this medium, but the basic skills are relatively easy to acquire. Once you’ve learned how to form and solder brass, you’ll find all kinds of modelling possibilities will open up for you. Assembling an

  • Connoisseur Models LNER Toad E, the joint with the iron tip. Don’t load the iron tip with a lot of extra solder, but work the joint in 1” lengths, bringing in small quantities of solder. Brass is a very forgiving material and if you get something out of alignment, use heat from the iron to desolder the joint before starting again. For complicated assemblies, it is a good idea to only tack solder parts together. You can then make adjustments by desoldering until you are happy with the location of parts and then solder soli

  • Connoisseur Models LNER Toad E, Livery, Bodywork - Red Oxide. Buffer beams, solebars, footboards and running gear - Black. Roof - White lead (probably better as dirty grey). Veranda floor - Dirty wood (Humbrol 110). Lettering - White. Transfers for lettering are available from the Historical Model Railway Society (HMRS), Voluntary sales officer, 8 Gilpin Green, Harpenden, Herts, AL5 5NR. Send SAE for list and order form. They are also stocked by some specialist 0 gauge retailers. You will require sheet 12, LNER goods vehicle insignia. References, A pictorial Record of LNER wagons, By Peter Tatlow, OPC, ISBN 0-92888-92-7. British Railway Wagons No 5, Cattle and Brake Vans, Cheona Publicati

  • Connoisseur Models LNER Toad E, Retaining collar Solder Spring steel wire BUFFER ASSEMBLY & SPRINGING LNER TOAD E BRAKE VAN ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS 1. First remove the sides, parts 1, and the cabin ends, parts 4, from the fret. Then remove the waste containing brake linkage from the doorways and fold the top and bottom of the sides 90°. Solder the bolt head detail plate, part 2, to the side. I tinned the back of the plate, tacked it into place, and then ran around the edges with a hot iron and a small amount of solder to solder it solidly into place. If you use plenty of flux to h

  • Connoisseur Models LNER Toad E, Check with an engineers square that the outer ends of the body are square and level to each other. If not, push the two sides in opposite directions until they are. It is important that the outer ends are square but if to achieve this the inner cabin ends are slightly out of square this wont be noticed. Now fold up the tabs to support the floors and then fit the floors, parts 5. Once these are fitted everything will be solid, so just keep checking that the body is not twisting as you solder them into place. 2. Now remove the ends,

  • Connoisseur Models LNER Toad E, I spot-soldered the horizontal to vertical handrail joints using 60/40 electrical solder as this gives a stronger joint than using 145° solder. Use plenty of flux and make sure the solder runs all around the joint. The end handrails are the trickiest to do, as the joint with the vertical handrail needs locating by eye (you can lay a rule along the horizontal body side handrail and nick the end vertical handrails with a file to give you a location mark). 4. Now fold by 90° the lower footboard and supports, par

  • Connoisseur Models LNER Toad E, Now fold up the sides of the base unit, part 20, and for the fixed wheel set the two fold-up tabs. Then solder the wheel set unit to these tabs. For the pivoting unit, clear the holes for a piece of 1.2mm copper rod. Now pass the rod through and solder at each end. If you slip some paper between the two units as you pass the rod through, this will prevent the solder creeping down the rod and joining the two units solidly together. Fit the two units to the van and solder into place. 6. Now is a good point to fit th

  • 7. Now for the roof. I have pre-rolled this in my rolling bars but you may have to work it a little with finger and thumb to get it to the exact profile. Mark out and drill holes for the chimney and ventilators, making the ventilator holes slightly undersize so the casting will be a tight push fit into the hole. Mark with a pencil the position and centre point of the rain stri

  • Connoisseur Models LNER Toad E, 9. Make a floor from the quality card that the etch was packed onto and glue inside the cabin with Evostick. I prefer a card floor as this helps to deaden the rattling empty box noise that you can get when the wagon is running on a layout. For glazing the end windows, you can use clear plasticard, but I prefer to cut flat sheets from the clear blister packs that many items are packaged in nowadays. This has a textured surface probably caused by the moulding process, which gives it a slightly opaque quality that I think represents dirty windows just right. I hope that you have found these instructions and description of my building techniques helpful. Hopefull

  • Connoisseur Models LNER Toad E, Bolt Head and Rivet Forming Tool Although a very reasonable job can be done with a scriber point, a rivet forming tool is very desirable if you are going to do a lot of kit building. These are produced by a number of different people but I use and would recommend the one produced by Dick Ganderton, Graskop, Dewlands Road, Verwood, Dorset, BH31 6PN, Tel 01202 822701. It is available with a number of different sized punches and anvils but if you were only going to get one size then I would recommend the 7mm scale 1½” diameter. I have got ten years hard use out of mine so far so this is a

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