Balsa Taube 40 Assembly Manual

Text of Balsa Taube 40 User Guide:

• Balsa Taube 40, Assembly Manual TAUBE 40 BALSA USA P.O. Box 164 Marinette, WI 54143 (906) 863-6421 © Copyright 1997 Read through the instruction manual first to familiarize yourself with the type of construction used in this model. The manual also contains important warnings and instructions for the assembly and the use of this model. Balsa USA’s only obligation shall be to replace such quantity of the product to be defective. User shall determine the suitability of the product for the intended use and shall assume all risk and liability in connection therewith. BALSA USA KIT GUARANTEE We at Balsa USA want you to be completely satisfied with your kit purcha

• TTAAUUBBEE 4400 Building Instructions Thank you for purchasing our completely new Taube 40 kit. A lot more has changed than just this new instruction booklet! We have simplified the construction in many areas which will hopefully make your building experience more enjoyable. Our step-by-step, photo illustrated instructions will guide you through the entire assembly of the model

• Balsa Taube 40, The Taube is built using balsa, spruce, birch plywood, lite (poplar) plywood, and basswood. Each of these woods have their own characteristics and were chosen for the best strength to weight ratios for the model. Each has a characteristic end grain pattern that is shown on the plans. Since most of the parts in the kit are balsa, only the plywood and hardwood parts are marked as such on the plan. The balsa parts called out are dimensioned for you to help you identify them. The plans are used to build the entire model. Be sure to always place wax paper or Saran Wrap™ over the plans to kee

• Balsa Taube 40, Wood Identification Adhesives If Balsa USA Gold CA products are used for the construction of this model, no other adhesives will be necessary. If another CA product is used for the construction, we recommend the use of epoxy for the dihedral braces, attaching the firewall, and landing gear blocks. Thin CA - Thin CA is used primarily for tacking parts together. It is normally followed with Thick CA to bridge any gaps and to make a fillet of glue for maximum bonding strength. Because Thin CA has the vi

• Balsa Taube 40, Key to Die Cut Parts (2) Balsa Sheets Required - 1/8 x 3-5/8 x 39 Fuse Sides (4) Balsa Sheets Required - 1/8 x 3 x 30 (1) Lite-Ply - 1/8 x 3-3/8 x 9-1/4 F-2 Front Dihedral Brace Rear Dihedral Brace (1) Lite-Ply Sheet - 1/8 x 4 x 12 (1) Birch Plywood - 1-64 x 7-1/2 x 11 Front Deck Sheeting Rear Cockpit Sheeting Birch Plywood - 1/64 x 7-1/2 x 9 Front Cockpit Sheeting (2) Balsa Sheet - 1/8 x 3 x 21 Trailing Edge Wing Tip TE Wing Tip TE F-3 F-4 F-2A W-4 W-5 Center Rib W-3

• Balsa Taube 40, Key to Die Cut Parts Fuse Doubler (6) Balsa Sheet - 1/8 x 3 x 12 Main Half Rib Main Half Rib Main Rib W-2 Main Rib W-2 Leading Edge Corners (1) Balsa Sheet - 1/8 x 3 x 21 (2) Balsa Sheet - 1/8 x 3 x 14 (2) Lite-Ply - 1/8 x 3-1/8 x 9-1/2 W-6 W-6 W-6 F-3C F-2B F-3A Tip Gusset Tip Half Rib Tip Half Rib Tip Half Rib Aft Deck Former Aft Deck Former Aft Deck Former

• Balsa Taube 40, Wing Construction Starts Here The Taube wings look difficult to build at first glance, but the way the model is designed, they will go together quite easily. It will just be a little different compared to the models you have previ- ously built. So don’t worry about it! Let’s get started. We will be building both wing panels at the same time and joining them later. 1.) Start by covering the plan with wax paper or Saran™ Wrap. 2.) Cut the lower forward 1/4 x 3/8 x 24 balsa spars to length. Note that they end just inside of the second tip rib. Pin the spars in place on both right and

• 11.) Glue all (10) main false ribs in place. 12.) Glue the two W-1 center ribs in place. 13.) To fit rib W-3, you will have to trim the front and back tip to match the leading edge and trailing edge curvature. Also you will need to trim the spar notches so the spars will fit at the necessary angle. 14.) Fit the false rib on the inside of W-3. Again trim the spar notches so the spar will f

• Balsa Taube 40, 21.) Use the 1/4 x 1/4 x 15 for the upper wingtip spar. Cut the angle at the front of the spar so it will fit flush against the back side of the front spar. Trim the rib notches at an angle for the spar so it will fit in place properly. Taper the outer end of the spar as shown in the “wingtip spars” detail drawing on the plans. When everything fits, glue it in place. 22.) Cut the 1/4 x 1/4 x 24 spar so it will fit flush against the wingtip spar and glue in place. 23.) Plane or carve the LE corner to match the leading edge. Do the same with the w

• Balsa Taube 40, 29.) Use the 3/32 x 3 x 18 to sheet the center section from the forward spar to the leading edge. Cut the sheeting to extend over the rib about 1/4” on the outside. 30.) Sheet the next two pieces of center section using 3/32 x 3 x 12 balsa. Note that the ribs at the trailing edge may have to be sanded down slightly so the sheeting will fit properly. The sheeting must touch the trailing edge along the back edge. 31.) Cut a piece of 3/32” from the 18” sheet and use it to fill in the trailing edge as shown above. The excess sheeting in the trailing edge cutout will be cut off when the wing is turned over. 32.) Turn the wing over and trim the excess sheeting off around the trail

• Balsa Taube 40, Stabilizer Construction: 1.) Cut the 1/4 x 5/8 balsa strips to length. Note that both ends of these pieces need to be cut and an angle. Pin them in place. 2.) Cut the 1/4 x 1/2 trailing edge to fit and pin it in place. Use the 24” long piece supplied. 3.) Cut the two shorter pieces of 1/4 x 1/2 balsa and glue them in place. 4.) Notch the 1/4 x 5/8 balsa strip for the 1/4 x 1/4 spruce leading edges. Use three or four pins along the outside of the LE to hold the curve in place. Glue the LE’s in place. 5.) Cut and glue in place the 1/4” square on the center line of the stab. Then add the 1/8 x 1/4 rib

• Balsa Taube 40, 3.) On former F-4, be sure to mark both lines. 4.) Use a 1/4” stick as a spacer and move the second fuse side further above the other. This is done just so you don’t accidentally glue both fuse sides together. 5.) On the first fuse side, pin down the upper part of the fuse side just above the stab cutout. Make sure it lines up right over the plan exactly in place. Sometimes due to stress in the wood relieved after diecutting, this may be drooped down a bit. Move it where ever necessary so it fits the plans. Place a 1/4” stick in the slot. Now pin the bottom par

• Balsa Taube 40, 10.) Refer to Photo 40. Mark the centers on the tops of formers F-2, F-3, and F-4. Note that F-2 is marked at the top of the upper longeron. 11.) Move the plans so former F-2 will be over the edge of the building board as shown in Photo 42. Line former F-4 up and pin the fuse sides down to the board right at former F-4. Be sure your center mark on F-4 is lined up with the fuselage plan centerline. 12.) Fit former F-3 in place the same way. Note on the side view that it is just behind the landing gear cut

• Balsa Taube 40, 18.) Cut the 3/8 x 3/4 hardwood landing gear block to length and glue in place. Note that it will be 1/8” higher than the fuse sides. 19.) Block sand the fuse bottom to give the bottom sheeting a nice flat surface to glue 20.) Use the 1/8 x 3 x 30 balsa to sheet the bottom of the fuse from the LG block aft. Use the 1/8 x 3 x 10 to sheet from the LG block forward. Sheet this forward portion of the fuse running the sheeting cross grain across the fuselage. 21.) Block sand the bottom at the LG block and all the forward glue joints. 22.) Remove the fuse from the board and trim off the excess bottom sheeting

• Balsa Taube 40, 29.) Measure from a point at the junction of the aft spar and the wingtip spar to the center of the tail of the fuselage as shown above. Do this on both sides of the wing and adjust the wing until both measurements are exactly the same. When the measurements are the same, the wing will be square with the fuselage. Pin or tape the leading edge so the wing cannot move. 30.) Take a corner off one of the diecut sheets and use it to cut an angle template. Use the side view to get the proper angle on lite

• 37.) Draw a vertical centerline on the 1/4” plywood firewall. Draw a horizontal (thrust) line 1-3/4” up from the bottom edge of the firewall. Line up the engine mount you have chosen using these lines and drill the mounting holes. 38.) Remove the mount and drill out the motor mount holes with a 5/32” drill bit. Press four 4-40 blind nuts in place. Be sure to

• 48.) This is going to be a tough step. Use a nickel to draw a circle around the wing bolt holes. Now cut the wing sheeting out to the lines to allow the wing bolts to pass through. 49.) Sand just the back facing side of the laminated F-3A formers at the angle shown above so the top deck sheeting will lay flat against it. Now, sand the front facing side of the laminated F-

• Balsa Taube 40, 53.) Refer to Photo 69. Trim and fit the aft cockpit sheeting. This sheet is cut oversize intentionally on the bottom sides and in the back so there will be plenty of room to trim it for your model. When trimming the bottom edges, use a straight edge and hobby knife to make the trim cuts. Trim both sides a little at a time to keep the cockpit centered and in line with the front cockpit opening. 54.) When the sheeting fits properly, glue it in place using the same technique as described in step 52. Trim and sand the sheeting so it is flush with the rear former. 55.) Cut out the 3/16” gluing strips from the cockpit opening and carefully sand the center jo

• Balsa Taube 40, 5.) Measure back 4-5/8” from the second aft deck former and glue the two piece former in place on each side of the fin. 6.) Cut and glue in place the 3/16 x 1/4 x 6 balsa strip from former F-4A to the fin. Make sure it is centered on the fin. 7.) Cut to length and glue a 3/16 x 3/16 x 10 balsa strip right alongside the 3/16 x 1/4 piece. This piece will extend to the last top deck former. 8.) Cut the remaining 3/16” stringers to length and glue them in place. 9.) Put one of the tail blocks in place and mark it on the bottom along the side of the fuselage. Refer to Photo 7

• Balsa Taube 40, 16.) Pin the 1/4 x 1/4 x 10 rudder post in place over the plans. Sand the outside edges of the rudders round except where they will be glued to the rudder post. If you wish, you can also radius the aft corners slightly so they will be easier to cover. 17.) Glue the rudders to the rudder post. Trim and sand the ends using the plans as a reference. Round the rudder post so it can be hinged later. 18.) Hinge the rudders to the tail post. 19.) Radius both the TE of the stabilizer and the LE of the elevator then hinge them together. We recommend not t

• Balsa Taube 40, 5.) Fit and glue in place the 1/8” balsa nose piece. 6.) Notch the upper longeron so you can run a 5/32” drill bit through the landing gear blocks and out the bottom. If you don’t have a drill bit long enough to do this, the blocks can be drilled out from the bottom. Be careful drilling so the drill runs straight otherwise you may drill through the side of the fuselage. 7.) Fit the landing gear in place. You will have to cut out the corners of the LG blocks to clear the radius in the b

• Balsa Taube 40, Control Surface Throws: Elevator - 1/2” Up and Down Rudder - 1-3/4” Right and Left Pre-Flight and Flying Now we are finally getting to the good part! You will find that the Taube 40 will be one of the easiest and most relaxing models that you have flown in a long time. However, before we get down to the flying you need to go over your model one last time to make sure that everything is as it should be. Here is a short check list for you to go through before the first flight. 1.) Check all servos to assure that the servo arm screws are in place and have been tightened properly. Servos and the trays should be securely fastened. 2.) Check all servo and pushrod linkages. All

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