Aero Craft Kerswap Building Instructions

Text of Aero Craft Kerswap User Guide:

• Aero Craft Kerswap, 4) Check the placement of the stabilizer ribs then pin the top spar in place. Set the spacing of the S1 ribs using the vertical fin. Pins parts SP1 and SP2 onto the plan with the vertical fin in place. Check that the stabilizer ribs are in place and vertical. Use the vertical fin to place the S1 ribs. Pin parts SP1 and SP2 to plan with the vertical fin in place. 5) Sight along a building square or triangle to make sure the fin is vertical. Glue the S1 ribs and parts SP1 and SP2 in place. Remove the vertical fin. Make sure the fin is vertical. Glue ribs S1 and parts SP1 and S

• Aero Craft Kerswap, 6. Mark then cut a piece of 1/16” cross grain sheeting for the end of the fuselage behind the stabilizer. Glue it in place and sand it even with the fuselage sides. Sand a notch into the bottom of the elevator leading edge so it clears the fuselage when the elevator is down. Mark a piece of cross grain sheeting for the part of the fuselage behind the stabilizer. Glue the sheeting in place and sand it flush to the fuselage sides. Sand a notch into the elevator leading edge so it clears the fuselage. Push rod installation and bottom sheeting - Parts and materials required for this building segment 30” Dubro micro push rod

• 8) Remove the pins holding the fuselage to the board. Trim the ends of lower stringers as shown on the plan. Glue part F5 in between the ends of the fuselage sides, butted up against former F4. Trim the ends of the fuselage sides as per the plan. Glue F5 up against former F4 9) Measure and cut the 1/8” strip stock pieces for the top and bottom of the fuselage between former

• Aero Craft Kerswap, 5) Measure and cut the 1/8”x3/16” trailing edge stiffeners. Sand a bevel onto the tops of the stiffeners so they will sit just under the ribs before gluing them into place at the front of the trailing edge, between the ribs. Sand the last stiffener so it blends into the outer piece of the upper spar. Add the trailing edge stiffeners where shown on the plan. Sand the last stiffener so it blends into the outer piece of the upper spar. Wing Assembly - Parts and materials required for this building segment Wing center, middle and outer panels built in the previous steps 1) Place the right hand middle wing section on a flat surface and weight it down. S

• Aero Craft Kerswap, 4) Pin 1/8”sq strip stock to the bottom of side. Align the stock with the front of the side and leave the rear end long, it will be trimmed later. Be sure to leave a gap at the rear landing gear leg. Be sure to leave a gap for the landing gear at the rear leg for the right hand side. Leave the ends long, they will be trimmed later. 5) Glue the 1/8”sq strip stock to the fuselage side, also glue the seam between the halves. Glue the strip stock to the fuselage side. Don't forget to glue the seam between the halves. 6) Remove the fuselage side from the plan and trim the ends of the 1/8�

• Aero Craft Kerswap, 2) Place the inner W1R and W1F ribs in place using the angle guide ANG2 to set the angle of the ribs. Glue all the ribs to the lower spar and the trailing/outer edge, being sure to keep them vertical. Glue W5 to W7 and W7 to W6. Glue W6 into the slot in W4. Place the upper and turbulator spars onto the ribs lining up the ends of the spars with the middle of W4. Glue them to the ribs starting at W4. Use the middle section dihedral brace to set the height of the upper spar at W1R and W1F. Set the angle for the inner W1

• 1) Mark and cut the 1/16”x3/4” trailing edge, 1/8”x1/4” hardwood upper and lower spars, 1/4” sq. leading edge, and 1/8” sq. turbulator spars all to length. Make sure to measure to the outside of the ribs. Put the 1/8”x1/4” hardwood lower spar in place over the plan but don't pin it down yet. Pin the 1/16”x3/4” balsa trailing edge into place over the plan

• Aero Craft Kerswap, 14) Glue the 1/8”sq strip stock to the fuselage side. (See step 5) 15) Remove the pins from the fuselage side and trim the ends of the 1/8”sq strip stock at the rear of the fuselage. (See step 6) 16) Measure and cut the 1/8”sq strip stock pieces for the fuselage sides. Measure and cut the 1/8”x1/4” hardwood landing gear supports. (See step 7) 17) Glue the 1/8”sq strip stock pieces and the forward landing gear support onto the fuselage side. Glue the rear landing gear support onto the fuselage side. The modeler can use the landing gear leg to insure the correct spacing. (See step 8) Fuselage assembly - Parts and materials required for this building segment Assembled fuselage sid

• Aero Craft Kerswap, 7) Cut 2 pieces of 3/32”x1/4” balsa strip stock for the leading edge about an inch or so longer than needed. Soak them in warm water for a few minutes until they are soft and pliable. Place them on the plan and pin them in place with T-Pins. Start in the middle and work towards the outside. Pull in the rear piece first then the front one. Place a couple of pins on the inside of the leading edge between S5 and S7 and also outside of S7 to help the balsa stay fitted to the curve. Let dry throughly, then glue in place. If using a liphatic resin, glue the rear piece first,

• Aero Craft Kerswap, There are a couple of disadvantages to CA. The adhesive bonds very well to skin. More than one modeler has glued them self to their model. De-bonding chemicals are available, however most builders simply pull their fingers away from the model leaving a bit of skin to be sanded off. Some people have an allergic reaction to CA fumes. If the fumes irritate your sinuses consider using aliphatic resin to build the model. *Pins Any kind of pin will work. We like the kind made specifically for modeling because their large heads make them easy to insert / remove and their sharp points eliminate wood splitting. Several dozen pins should be on hand to hold

• Aero Craft Kerswap, In order to have enough time to complete the next step use a slow setting epoxy. We recommend at least 30 minute. NOTE: Do not use aliphatic resin for this step, as it will cause the pieces to warp. 3)Cut the two pieces of 3/16” dowel used for the wing hold downs to the length shown on the plan. Place one of the pylon sides P7 onto the plan, coat it with a thin layer of slow setting epoxy. Take the assembled pylon core and coat both sides of it with a thin layer of epoxy. Place the core on top of P7. Put the dowel pieces into place in the slots in the core. Add some epoxy to fill in the rest of the holes around the dowels. Take the other P7 and put a thi

• Aero Craft Kerswap, Covering The Kerswap should be covered in a lightweight, strong covering material. Examples are Polycover light and Hanger 9 Ultracote lite. The cover sequence is the same as building. 1 - Tail Group If you are using the covering hinge for the elevator as shown on the plans install that after covering the stabilizer and elevator. 2 – Fuselage Be careful when covering the thin areas at the top rear of the fuselage. 3 - Pylon A simple trick for covering the curves on the front and rear of the pylon is to first put a 1/4” wide strip of covering on the

• Aero Craft Kerswap, 15) Mark then cut 1/16” sheet balsa to fit between the S1B ribs behind the spar. Mark and cut a slot for the fin, then glue the sheeting in place. Mark then cut 1/16” sheeting to fit between the S1B ribs. Mark then cut a slot in the sheeting for the fin. Glue the finished sheeting in place. 16) Sand the leading edge of the stabilizer even with the ribs and round it according to the plan. Sand a bevel onto the leading edge of the elevator as shown on the plan. Sand the leading edge of the stabilizer round as per the plan. Bevel the stabilizer trailing and elevator leading edges. Pylon Parts and material

• Aero Craft Kerswap, Construction Construction begins by studying the plans, parts, and instructions. The builder should understand what is to be done before committing glue to wood. This attitude towards building helps to eliminate mistakes and results in a more enjoyable and successful building project. Every model airplane kit should be built carefully. Good building practices will result in a better looking and flying model. Taking the time to accurately cut stock and pre-fit parts pays off with an overall better

• 2) Cut the covering on the stabilizer away from the slot for the vertical fin on both the top and bottom sides. Fit the fin into the stabilizer making sure it's flush with the bottom. Wick thin CA between the bottom of the fin and the stabilizer to glue them together. Cut the covering from the slot in the stabilizer on both the top and bottom. Before gluing i

• Aero Craft Kerswap, 8) Glue the 1/8”sq pieces and the forward landing gear support onto the fuselage side. Glue the rear landing gear support onto the fuselage side using the landing gear leg to insure the correct spacing. Use a landing gear leg to get the correct spacing between the landing gear support blocks. Make sure the 1/8"sq pieces are aligned with the marks. 9) Now do the left hand side. Pin the second set of fuselage sides over the side view on the plan. (See step 1) Line them up carefully and make sure the joint between the panels is tight. Glue the halves together. 10) Mark the locations of the formers, 1/8”sq sticks, and the

• Aero Craft Kerswap, Gilbert Morris Designer of the Kerswap Gilbert Morris started building model airplanes at the age of 8 in 1933. He soon began building his own designs. His main interest was in duration flying. His early efforts were all rubber powered. He bought his first engine in 1939 and from that time on stayed with powered models. In the fall of 1941 Morris designed the Kerswap. He built three Kerswaps that winter. During the 1942 contest season he lost all three models when they flew out of sight! Our version of the Kerswap was designed by Tom Hunt. The new version features a large

• Aero Craft Kerswap, Parts and materials included with the kit. Bagged parts 4 - Magnets 1 – 3/16” .x 3” Dowel 2 – Flat landing gear straps 4 - #2 Sheet metal screws 1 – Hinge strip sheet Strip bundle (36” Lengths) 10 - 1/8" sq. Balsa 2 - 1/8" x 1/4” Balsa 2 - 1/8" x 3/16" Balsa 2 - 1/4"sq. Balsa 1 - 3/16" x 3/8" Balsa 2 - 3/32" x 1/4" Balsa 4 - 1/8" x 1/4" Hardwood Sheet balsa stock (36” Long) 4 - 3" x 1/16" 1 – 3/4” x 1/16” Miscellaneous 2 – Formed wire landing gear 1 - .032” x 4” wire Laser cut parts sheets 1 – Sheet#1 1/8” Balsa 1 �

• Aero Craft Kerswap, 12) Turn the fuselage right side up and glue part FW onto the front of the fuselage. Make sure that the holes in FW are aligned with the holes in F1 and that the fuselage is sitting flat on the LG2 and LG3 parts. Glue part FW onto the front of the fuselage, making sure it's even with LG2. Battery and radio hatch assemblies - Parts and materials required for this building segment Assembled fuselage from previous step H1, H2, 2 ea HM – Laser cut balsa parts 3”x1/16” balsa sheet 4ea small magnets 1) Take two of the small magnets and stick them to each other. Make a mark on the exposed sid

• Aero Craft Kerswap, 2) Place the dihedral brace DB1 in place in front of the W1R's and centered over the lower spar. Pin the 3 W1F's in front of it, being sure they are vertical. Place the 1/8”x1/4” upper spar and the 1/8” sq. turbulator spars into place. Glue the ribs to the trailing edge, the dihedral brace, and all the spars. Glue the dihedral brace to the upper and lower spars. Pin the W1F's to the plan in front of the dihedral brace. Glue the ribs to the trailing edge, dihedral brace, and the spars. Glue the dihedral brace to both spars. 3) Remove the wing center section from the board. Glue the 1/4” s

• 11) If the stabilizer leading edge pieces have not yet been glued, make sure they are completely dried and glue them to the front of the stabilizer and each other. Glue the stabilizer leading edge to the ribs. Glue the pieces of the stabilizer leading edge together. 1 2) Remove the stabilizer and elevator from the plan. Trim and sand the ends of stabilizer leading and trailing e

• 2) Continue sheeting from behind the battery hatch. Cutting the sheeting slightly wider than the fuselage. Be sure to put a small gap behind the battery hatch to leave room for covering. When sheeting over part PS1 make sure to cut an opening in the sheeting for the pylon mount to go through. Cut a hole in the sheeting for the pylon mount to go through. Leave a gap for the coveri

• Aero Craft Kerswap, 4) Pin the right hand fuselage side over the plan, fitting formers F2 and F3 into the side. Glue F2 and F3 to the left hand fuselage side. Glue the 1/8”sq pieces on the bottom to both fuselage sides. Glue the left hand fuselage side onto formers F2 and F3 Glue the 1/8”sq pieces in between the fuselage sides. 5) Put F1 in place on the front of the fuselage, carefully lining it up even with the front end of the fuselage sides. Make sure the opening for the wires is on the bottom so they will not interfere with the battery hatch. Glue F1 to the fuselage. Make sure F1 is aligned even with the front of the fuselage. 6) Glue par

• Aero Craft Kerswap, 3) Pin parts V2 and V3 over the plan. Use fin leading edge V1 lined up over the plan to mark the end of the 3/16”x3/8” strip stock to be used for the fin center piece. Cut it and pin it and part V1 to the plan. Pin parts V2 and V3 over the plan. Use part V1 to mark the center piece for the fin. Cut it to shape. Pin the fin center section and part V1 to the plan. 4) Glue the fin and rudder parts together, be careful not to glue the fin trailing edge and rudder leading edge to each other. Remove the fin and rudder from the plan. Glue the fin and ru

Related Products and Documents (Toy):

Comparable Devices:

Similar Resources:

• Fisher-Price B4251 (8 pages) www.fisher-price.come• Please keep this instruction sheet for future reference, as it contains important information.• Requires three “C” (LR14) alkaline batteries (not included).• Adult assembly is required for battery installation.• Tool required for battery installation: Phillips screwdriver (not included).f• Conserver ce mode d’emploi pou …

• Fisher-Price W1383 (4 pages) W1383W1383Please keep this instruction sheet for future reference, as it contains important information.Requires three button cell (LR44) batteries (included) for lantern operation.Adult assembly is required for battery replacement.Tool required for battery replacement: Phillips screwdriver (not included). …

• Faller 190070/4 (4 pages) Sa. Nr. 104 699 0TOILETTENWAGEN + ZÄUNETOILET CAR + FENCES VOITURE SANITAIRE + BARRIÈRES TOILETTENWAGEN + OMHEININGArt. Nr. 190070/4Vor Beginn des Bastelns sollten Sie sich mit den Spritzlingen und der Anleitung vertraut machen. Sollte es einmal vorkommen, dass ein Teil im Bausatz fehlt, kreuzen Sie bitte das fehlende Teil in der Anleitung an und schicken …

• Eduard 53 195 (4 pages) 1/453 19553 195ORIGINAL KIT PARTSPŮVODNÍ DÍLY STAVEBNICEPHOTO-ETCHED PARTSLEPTANÉ DÍLYPARTS TO BE REMOVEDDÍLY K ODSTRANĚNÍFILLTMELITeduardREMOVEODSTRANITOPTIONVOLBA?REPLACENAHRADITBENDOHNOUTGRINDOBROUSITSYMETRICAL ASSEMBLYSYMETRICKÁ MONTÁŽDRILL HOLEVRTAT OTVORAPPLY EXPRESS MASK AND PAINT BEFORE GLUINGPOUŽÍT EXPRESS MASK NABARVIT PRED SLEPENÍM1C …

• Century Radikal G20 (43 pages) Kit Features:Specifications:Lightweight yet extremely strong G10 or carbon fiber frames.High gloss large diameter 25mm tail boom with belt drive system.Blade grips accommodate blades 12mm (LT) to 18mm (HD) blade roots. 300 mL fuel tank for long engine run time.Convenient and easy access to spark plug.Triple bearing supported blade grips and tail blade grips. …

• Hobbico Sea scout (4 pages) ®Warranty• Hobbico®, Inc. will warrant this product for 90 days after the date of purchase from defects in materials or workmanship.• Make sure you save the receipt or invoice you were given when you bought your model! It is your proof of purchaseand we must see it before we can honor the warranty.• In no case shall Hobbico’s liability exceed the o …

Comments, Questions and Opinions: